While Incredible !ndia” has a nice ring to it, “never say never,” would be a more fitting slogan for a country that never fails to catch me with a left hook. Flying metaphors aside, I was stunned this weekend, but what a great time I had in a city known for its disciplined and hard working citizenry.
It’s been nearly three months since I arrived and I still have much to see of this city. In a strange, unsettling way, Bangalore inspires simultaneous feelings of claustrophobia and extreme isolation. In Bangalore, there is no such thing as personal space. People, cows, cars and motorcycles all fight over the same scant breathing room and any flat surface may be used by one or more of the above at any time.
It is because transportation is such a headache that I have confined myself to a small but growing corner of Bangalore. While not located in central Bangalore, the village of Challaghatta is easily accessible to MG Road, UB City and a smattering of bars and restaurants. This is partly to blame for my unwillingness to explore on my own–everything I need is near at hand.
This weekend I went to two rockin’ concerts, Kailash Kher and Octoberfest, both at the Palace Grounds. While the family-friendly vibe of the Kailash Kher show was stifling at first, with some provocation from the VIP guest, the audience was on its feet and jamming the aisles to get a better view of the tiny man with the giant voice. At Saturday’s show I also something I’ve never witnessed before, a warmup band so bad they were practically booed off the stage.
It’s no secret that Indian mass culture is highly commercialized. There’s nothing cute or subtle about the way brands here put themselves in front of potential consumers, and everything has the potential to be a marketing vehicle. Some lame band had been selected by a talent scouting agency Desi Tara, to entertain the crowd before Kher’s arrival. This made-to-be-famous quintet was fronted by a lead singer so devoid of charisma he had to plead with the audience to sing his next songs. Each time they stalled for time–Kher was stuck in traffic–the crowd grew bolder, telling the group they couldn’t bear to listen to another of their tunes. As much as I agreed, I was embarrassed to see performers treated with such disrespect, but to be honest, they were super lame. After the concert, we finished the night with a belly full of delicious kebabs and rice from some dingy joints in Frazier Town, Bangalore’s predominantly Muslim Quarter.
Sunday night was Octoberfest, perhpaps a deliberate mis-spelling, but a great reason to rock out. Kingfisher Beer, a heavy favorite to be India’s most aggressive marketer, was the main sponsor of the music festival and, I was hard pressed to find an empty inch where their logo was not plastered. (Part of the invasion of personal space has to do with the omnipresence of advertiser’s messages)
With cheap beer flowing and a pervasive carnival atmosphere, Octoberfest closely resembled Bumbershoot, Folklife and the many outdoor music events of my youth. The familiar scene was punctuated by a short eruption of fireworks at the beginning of Indian Ocean’s set. It could have been a coincidence having to do with a nearby wedding, but as the legendary Indian rock band took the stage, the electricity in the crowd, the bombs bursting in air and the mood of the night made my hair stand on end.
As if this weren’t enough, a cabal of five DJs was waiting for us in the nearby pavilion once the show ended, determined to keep the crowd writhing until the last drop of sweat escaped from my pores. As my blue wig (a very handy prop on sale for $8) bobbed up and down, I caught a glimpse of my watch; nearly 12:30am and not a cop in sight. Had we suddenly been transported to an alternate universe? I wondered as the trance music brought me closer and closer to an epileptic fit. No, somehow this was still stodgy Bangalore whipping out one of the many trump cards tucked in its sleeve.
(Kingfisher Beer, Kingfisher Force India Racing, Kingfisher Air, United Breweries and their affiliates were in no way responsible for the content of this blog post–though I’m sure they wouldn’t a little free promotion)
















